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www.ajc.org Excerpts of the first Jewish broadcast that took place from occupied Germany in Aachen in 1944. Courtesy of the American Jewish Committee. Listen to the entire radio broadcast here: www.ajcarchives.org Watch more video at ajc.org/multimedia. Watch archived video at ajcarchives.org.
Being from central California, I might be forgiven for feeling some trepidation when I flew from United States to live in Germany as my impression was of a dark and dreary land. I suspect it’s natural for one to assume that any place on the same general latitude of Winnipeg Canada was certainly bound to yield less than the balmy 110 degree summers of my erstwhile mountain home. Arriving in Frankfurt and traveling south on the autobahn at significantly higher rates of speed than I was used to, deposited me in a small town by the name of Schwetzingen. By way of landmarks, Schwetzingen is approximately ten miles west of Heidelberg and ten miles south of Mannheim in south central Germany.
Having arrived in the spring, I was pleasantly surprised at the temperate climate and lush foliage. I particularly enjoyed the intermingling of fields and cities that give a feeling of cohabitation between city dwellers and the countryside (although it’s a bit less attractive when the farmers are spreading liquid manure). It’s very different in that regard than the urban sprawl that we experience in America wherein the farmers are priced out of an area and the mini-malls and subdivisions move in.
After getting somewhat acclimated to my accommodations at the edge of town and procuring some local currency I walked into town and proceeded to get to know the place. As an amateur history buff I was really enjoying the architecture, particularly the Schloss (palace) downtown. The city seems to be a suburb of the larger towns around it and boast a mellow feeling. Not at all fluent in speaking German I decided to take a chance and ventured into a restaurant where I was warmly greeted, seated and given a menu (in German of course). After perusing it for a bit I decide that schweineschnitzel means something like a pork chop so I confidently indicate to the waitress that I would like a jagerschnitzel, with water and I was quite relieved to see that “beer” was pronounced pretty much the same so I ordered one of those as well. Lo and behold, the woman came out with a pork chop smothered in my nemesis the dreaded mushroom and some foul black liquid in a glass that seemed almost to be a solid, potentially requiring me to chew it. Apparently, German “Alt” beer is not unlike a Guinness stout. I gamely ate everything on the plate sans the mushrooms and with much gesticulation complimented them on a meal that was more than satisfactory.
Further exploration in Schwetzingen yielded an Italian restaurant with lasagna served still boiling from the oven that I became addicted to. And just east of town is the Bellamar swimming complex that I came to reside at as my second home. This is a family friendly swimming complex that includes indoor/outdoor temperature controlled pools, sauna, hot tubs, sun lamps, a restaurant that allows for seated as well as outdoor and poolside dining. For the summer months and there is also an adjoining Olympic sized pool and park. What’s not to love? Swimming in the steamy indoor / outdoor pool under the crisp winter night’s sky with snow falling all around is something that stays with you. As a note, with many places in Europe, the saunas are clothing optional.
This area of Germany is very foot traffic friendly so I rode my bike along paths through fields and surrounding towns to Heidelberg to explore this scenic city nestled at the foot of the mountains. This towns most prominent landmark is the Castle that was used both as a fortress and palace located on the hill overlooking the Neckar river. As you pass through town approaching the hills you will find a street that is blocked to automotive traffic called the Hauptstrasse (hoff-straus-a) that features a plethora of stores and restaurants. At the eastern end there is a Mecca for a homesick American, a McDonalds! And even better, they serve beer! So, after an arduous ride into town one can score some fast food and a six pack of beer for a day on the northern grassy banks of the Neckar river with the picturesque view of the town and castle directly in front. Shirts seem to be optional in the park here as well.
All in all I found the German people pleasant and receptive, particularly when I made efforts to converse with them in their own language.
If you hankering for fine German wine and food, why not consider the Mosel region of central western Germany on the border of Luxembourg? While I can’t guarantee that you’ll find a bargain, I know you’ll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a local white Riesling tasted with several meals and paired with imported cheeses.
The Mosel Valley has long been considered one of the most beautiful river valleys in the world. This region, formerly known as Mosel-Saar-Ruwer in honor of its three rivers, is proud of its Riesling wine. Some of the greatest Rieslings in Germany and in fact in the entire world come from the Mosel Valley. Experts can often identify Mosel Rieslings because of the slate in the local soil, which may impart a taste of flint. Mosel vineyard slopes are among the steepest in the wine-producing world, sometimes attaining 70 degrees. The soil is so precious that every spring local workers lug pails of soil up these slopes. This arduous activity temporarily reverses the effect of the rains that wash the soil down every winter.
Mosel is fifth among the thirteen German wine regions with respect to both vineyard acreage and total wine production. Slightly more than three quarters of the wine produced here is QbA and somewhat less than one quarter is higher quality QmP wine. Only one percent is table wine. More than half of all Mosel wine is Riesling. The German hybrid Mueller-Thurgau represents about 20% of the wine production. In third place is the historic variety Elbing that dates back to Roman times and is the major grape variety in the neighboring country of Luxembourg. Only about 2% of Mosel wine is red.
Basically the Mosel Valley runs from Koblenz not far from Germany’s former capital Bonn to the city of Trier that sits very close to the border. These two cities are linked by the Mosel Weinstrasse (Mosel Wine Road) which is about 140 miles (224 kilometers) long on the eastern side of the river and somewhat less on the western side. Of course, you could take the autobahn to get between Koblenz and Trier at breakneck speed. If you do, you’ll miss the interesting little towns and vineyards along the way.
Bernkastel-Kues is a town of about eight thousand that sits astride the Mosel River with Bernkastel on the east bank and Kues on the west bank. Bernkastel is about seven hundred years old but the area itself was first inhabited thousands of years ago. Bernkastel’s medieval town square is lovely with numerous half-timbered houses, some of which were built in the Fifteenth Century. St. Michaelsbrunnen (St. Michael’s Fountain) is right on the square and other historic fountains are nearby. Make sure to see the ruins of Burgruine Landshut (Castle of Landshut) for an excellent view of the city and surrounding vineyards. The first weekend of September marks the annual Weinfest der Mittelmosel (Wine Festival of the Middle Moselle River Valley) that includes a festive procession and a great fireworks display.
Bernkastel is home to the Bernkasteler Doctor vineyard producing one of Germany’s most expensive wines. According to popular legend a Fourteenth Century Archbishop of Trier was too sick to be helped by traditional medicine. He tasted some of the local wine, recovered, and said, “The best doctor grows in this vineyard in Bernkastel.” Due to questionable changes in German wine laws wine bottles labeled Bernkasteler Doctor may now be made by thirteen producers instead of three as previously. Let the buyer beware.
Kues was home to the Fifteenth Century theologian and philosopher Nikolaus Casanus, founder of the St.-Nikolaus-Hospital that operates a wine estate and the Mosel-Weinmuseum (Mosel Wine Museum). The museum’s library is open for tours and its wine cellar is open for tastings. Several local winemakers hold Tage der offenen Weinkeller (Open wine cellar days) in which they present and sell their wine in their own wine cellars.
Before we review the Mosel wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are some suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Gaensestopfleher (Foie Gras). For your second course enjoy Entenbrust an Brombeerjus (Duck Breast in Blackberry Juice). And for dessert indulge yourself with Schokoladencreme (Chocolate Mousse).
OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.
Wine Reviewed St. Urbans-Hof Riesling Kabinett 2005 8.6% alcohol about $20.00
Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. The 2005 Piesporter Goldtroepfchen Riesling Kabinett – still manages to show true Kabinett delicacy on the palate, which Weis attributes in part to earlier harvest and frankly in part to this site’s compatibility with higher yields. Skin contact and minimal clarification in the cellar help compensate for any danger of dilution. (Lower-yielding parcels nowadays must result in Spaetlese or Auslese.) Pineapple, grapefruit, black currant, and Golden Delicious apple dominate the proceedings, suffused with an aura of smoky, crushed stone, and mouthwatering acidity. This is once again a ‘little’ Mosel archetype and a terrific value … And now for the review.
Before the meal I thought to taste this wine on its own. It was delicately acidic and palate cleansing with light bubbles. Then I started with sweet and sour purchased barbecued chicken wings. The wine was fine with light acidity. Now I was ready to begin, so to speak. My initial pairing involved a commercial barbecued chicken leg with the paprika-coated skin, potatoes roasted in chicken fat, and some disappointing pickle slices. The wine’s fruit intensified to meet the chicken’s fat. This Riesling was quite round when dealing with the melt-in-your-mouth potatoes.
The next meal was an omelet with a local Provolone cheese and Turkish salad. The wine was round, thick, and pleasantly sweet. The word feathery came to mind. It sort of floated especially after the Turkish salad. Then I savored a high-quality, chocolate-coated vanilla ice cream bar. The wine retained its acidity; it was almost a good match.
The final meal was more of a snack. I ate some packaged Texas corn fritters with generous dollops of 14% sour cream. The wine was bold, sweet, and pleasantly acidic but frankly wasted on such plebian fare. I did finish the bottle with home made barbecued chicken to which the wine did honor. Even though the barbecue sauce wasn’t sweet the combination was excellent.
The initial cheese pairing was with a Dutch Edam that was nutty, a bit fatty, and somewhat sour. The Riesling’s sweetness seemed to step up a notch and it displayed tingling acidity. It’s been a long time since I enjoyed a wine and cheese pairing this much. Then I went to a mild-tasting Italian Friulano. The wine was acidic with sugar in the background.
Final verdict. This Riesling is a winner. I wouldn’t hesitate to pair it with a top of the line German poultry dish, the kind that you pay big bucks for over there. At 8.9% this is one of the least alcoholic wines that I have tasted in a long, long time. And you know what, I didn’t miss it a bit.
With one foot in the Alps and one foot in Germany, Munich’s wonderful location makes it a fantastic place to rent a car. The following is a guide to the best places to visit while on tour in Munich.
Munich Airport Mini Guide:
Munich International Airport is to be found 29km from the centre of the city of Munich. Munich International Airport can be reached by exiting off the A92 between Munich and Deggendorf.
The award-winning airport has a range of facilities including: 24 hour internet access, wireless Internet access, a 24-hour medical emergency centre and bureau de change for last-minute euros. Information desks can be found in the arrival and departure areas of level 4 and in the main hall of level 3.
Things To See/Do in Munich:
It’s easy to see why Munich is such a popular destination for city breaks. Not only does the city boast impressive cultural attractions and a lively nightlife, the surrounding countryside offers an exciting car hire touring experience.
Munich is the capital of the Bavarian region of southwest Germany. Bordered by the Alps, the city has its own unique culture. Marienplatz, the main town square is a great place to start sightseeing. The square is characterised by its four impressive cathedrals. The oldest parish church, Peterskirche (Alter Peter) offers visitors a stunning view over the city from its viewing platform at 300ft.
A short car hire trip outside of the city will take you to other historic attractions including Nymphenburg Palace, The English Garden or the Allianz Arena, which hosted crucial matches in 2006’s FIFA World Cup.
Karlstor, just off the Karlsplatz Square is the gateway to Munich’s fabulous shopping scene. Passing through the historic arch, shoppers enter a wonderland of thrifty high-street fashion stores and elegant boutiques which encompasses Neuhauser Strasse, Kaufinger Strasse and Marienplatz. Here you’ll find all the cheap European chain stores such as Zara, H&M, Mango and C&A, as well as chic department stores such as Karstadt and Galeria Kaufhof. The whole area is pedestrianised, punctuated only by brightly coloured fruit and flower stalls.
Eating Out/Nightlife/Accommodation in Munich:
If beer is Munich’s number one obsession, food comes in at a close second. From cheap quick snacks sold on street kiosks like donuts, hot-dogs, roasted nuts and Turkish kebabs to traditional and international cuisine, the city has it covered. Munich’s traditional fare may not be the most attractive of cuisines, but it’s hearty fuel for a day’s shopping and sightseeing all the same. Local specialities include Haxe, grilled knuckle of pork or veal, Knoedel which is bread or potato dumpling and Weisswurst, a white veal sausage which is boiled and served in its own special earthenware cauldron. Grilled fish with thinly sliced fried potato is another popular low cost dish. In general, prices for eating out are cheap and portion sizes are generous. Munich is famous for its beer and its breweries, so it’s not surprising that a guided tour of the of the city’s breweries tops the to-do list of most visitors to Munich. However, the sheer number of beer gardens and historic beer halls located around the city makes it possible to sample the breweries’ delights in your own time. Beer is big business in Munich. Each year, over six million tourists visit the annual Oktoberfest in September and October.
In terms of accommodation, Munich offers something for everyone. Those on a thrifty budget will find cheap lodgings at hotels such as Hotel Jedermann and Intercity Munchen, close to the main railway station on Bayerstrasse. Meanwhile, those looking to splash out will find themselves in the lap of luxury at establishments like The Mandarin Oriental.
Nowadays about 150,000 people per year leave Germany to start a new life in another land. What they arrange for this decision is very different. Often it deals something with their workplace. In some branches the German terms of employment are very bad, compared with other countries. A good example is the situation of the doctors. It’s hard to be a doctor in Germany. This means much work and a very small income. Nevertheless, many people in Germany have no work and – if they think of their future – also hardly perspectives in their field. They don’t know what to do. The last possibility is to look for international place offers. This seems to be a good idea. German manpower has a very good call in some countries. Many people believe that Germans are punctual and industrious.
Some Germans just search the big adventure in the distance. Others are dissatisfied with political decisions in Germany, the cold and rainy weather or simply the kind of living in Germany. However an emigration should be well prepared. It’s not as easy as it seems to be. Often it takes some time, till someone gets a job in the new country. Many Germans have to come back, because they have not enough money for the beginning. Good chances have pensioners, because of their regular income.
