Slavo in germany Food Arrives
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If you are looking for fine French wine and food, consider the Alsace region of northeastern France. You may find a bargain, and I hope that you’ll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a local white Riesling wine tasted with several meals and paired with imported cheeses.
Alsace ranks tenth out of the eleven French winemaking regions in terms of its acreage devoted vineyards. But don’t let the statistics mislead you; little Alsace is a major producer of quality French wine. Its wine growing area is barely 60 miles (100 kilometers) long, and at most 2.5 miles (4 kilometers) wide tucked between the Vosges Mountains to the west and the Rhine River and Germany to the east. But this relatively tiny area is famous for its distinctive wines. Alsatian wine bottles are also distinctive; tall and thin with labels that feature the grape variety, not the usual practice in France. Chaptalization (adding sugar to the fermenting grape mixture) is allowed for many wine categories.
About 95% of Alsace wine is white. The major white grape varieties are Gewurztraminer, Muscat, Pinot Gris, and Riesling, reviewed below. Its secondary white grape varieties include Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner, and Muscat. The major red grape variety is Pinot Noir, which we review in a companion article in this series.
The beautiful Vosges mountains are located in eastern France near the Rhine River and Black Forest of western Germany. They are largely composed of granite and red sandstone. Their highest point is the Grand Ballon (also known as Ballon de Guebwiller) whose elevation is about 4600 feet (slightly more than 1424 meters). The vineyards of its eastern slopes have an elevation of up to 1300 feet (400 meters).
The Vosges mountains are ideal for tourists. Attractions include beautiful forests, several castles in ruins, and health resorts. If you are so inclined you can hike their usually gentle slopes and are never far from vineyards and restaurants serving delicious foods and local wines. After all, you are on the Alsace Wine Route, at least for the eastern slopes. Don’t forget the winter skiing. The southern Vosges, near the village of Bussang, boasts a beautiful fountain exploiting a spring that originates in the Moselle River. I hope you don’t mind that this particular area is just over the border in Lorraine.
Before reviewing the Alsatian wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Schniederspaetle (Onion Ravioli). For your second course savor Brochet d’I a la creme (Pike in White Wine and Cream Sauce). And for dessert indulge yourself with Strudel aux Pommes (Apple Strudel).
OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.
Wine Reviewed Hattstatty Hatschbourg Riesling 2003 12.5% alcohol about $21.00
Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. This wine won a Gold Medal at the 2006 Concours Riesling du Monde. Established in 1998, the Concours Riesling du Monde (Rieslings of the World) competition takes place every year in Strasbourg, Alsace. Rieslings from throughout the world are submitted to an international jury of oenologists and wine critics. This hugely respected competition illustrates the diversity and brilliance of fine Riesling from around the world. And now for the review.
My first meal consisted of chicken barbecued in a home made sweet and sour Thai sauce with Portabello mushrooms and red pepper. The wine was fruity, nice and complex. It was quite a good match and I knew that this would be a quality wine.
The next shot was a commercially barbecued chicken leg (not nearly as tasty as my own barbecued chicken) with its skin in a paprika sauce accompanied by Turkish salad, and Greek olives. I started by sipping the wine alone, as I was afraid that I might have lost the bottle because the wine sat in the fridge for quite some time. No problem. This Riesling wine was fine with an appely taste but in the positive sense. The food pairing made the wine even better. It was quite long and powerful and yet delicate. While I liked the Greek olives and I liked the wine, I did not enjoy the two together. The Riesling’s acidity became more intense when pair with a moderately spicy Turkish salad. I finished the glass with some overripe cherries. This time the wine went flat, especially with the sweet ones.
The final meal was an omelet with a local Provolone cheese and a side of Turkish salad. The wine was nice and crisp. I tasted a touch of lime. As dessert I had a high-quality chocolate-coated vanilla ice cream bar. The ice cream bar was fine but it did flatten the wine somewhat.
My first cheese was a nutty, fatty, and slightly sour Dutch Edam cheese. My Edam cheese was well beyond edible by humans, although the spores looked like they were having a real feast. Anyway, in the presence of this Dutch Edam the Riesling was round and fruity, with pleasant acidity. In the presence of an Italian Friulano cheese the wine became sour and flatter.
Final verdict. Great wine, I will buy it again and watch my pairings more closely. This wine should be served with the right gourmet meal.
When only one variety of grapes is used to make a wine, the wine is called a varietal and is named after that grape. Regulations vary by location, but in California at least 75% of the juice in a wine must be of a particular grape in order for the wine to be labeled as a varietal.
TYPES OF WHITE WINES
Chardonnay
This popular dry white wine is more full bodied than other white wines. Chardonnay has aromas of fruits and acidity. The aroma typically has flavors of lemon or grapefruit. Fermentation in new oak barrels results in a rich, buttery taste often described as toastiness, vanilla, apple, nutty, or toffee. Chardonnays aged in French oak result in a milder flavor than those aged in American oak.
Food and Wine Pairing: Chardonnay goes well with chicken, seafood, and fish.
Origin: Chardonnay originated from the Burgundy area of France. There are many world-class Chardonnays being produced in California.
Sauvignon Blanc
Lighter than Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc usually has a grassy citrus aroma. Flavors range from apple, pear, green tea, limes and freshly mowed grass. You can often detect a little smokiness. California Sauvignon Blancs sometimes have a melon flavor. This is a crisp light wine with a strong acid finish. It is also called Fume Blanc.
Food and Wine Pairing: Sauvignon Blanc pairs well with salads, poultry, seafood, and cheese.
Origin: Sauvignon Blanc originated from the Sancerre region of France. Fabulous Sauvignon Blanc is currently being produced in New Zealand, South Africa, California, and Washington as well.
Rieslings have a floral aroma. They range from very dry and crisp to intensely sweet depending on where it is from. German Riesling is slightly sweet and balanced with some acidity. California Riesling tends to be sweeter.
Food and Wine Pairing:Rieslings go well with chicken, fish, pork, and spicy foods.
Origin: Rieslings originate from Germany. Great Rieslings are also produced in New York, Washington, California, and Australia.
Gewurztraminer
Gewurztraminer has a spicy aroma and fruity flavors of peach, apricot, tropical fruits, and lychee. It can be dry or sweet.
Food and Wine Pairing: Gewurztraminers go especially well with spicy Asian dishes and pork sausages.
Origin: Gewurztraminer comes from the Alsace region of France. Fantastic Gewurztraminers are produced in Germany, New York, Washington, and California.
Pinot Grigio
Pinot Grigio is light and crispy with almond, lemon, and vanilla flavors. These wines are also called Pinot Gris.
Food and Wine Pairing: Pinot Grigio goes well with seafood and salmon.
Origin: Pinot Grigio originated in Burgandy long ago but is often considered an Italian wine. The grapes prefer a cold climate, which is why Oregon is able to produce delicious Pinot Grigio.
TYPES OF RED WINES
Cabernet Sauvignon
Cabernet Sauvignon is a rich full-bodied wine. Aged in oak, this is a complex wine with cassis and blackberry flavors as well as hints of bell pepper. To make these wines drinkable sooner they are often blended with other grapes. French Bordeaux is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon blended with Merlot to soften the tannins. When blended with Merlot and perhaps Cabernet Franc as well, this Bordeaux style blend is called Meritage in the United States.
Food and Wine Pairing Cabernet Sauvignon is the classic wine to serve with red meats.
Origin Cabernet Sauvignon is a well known grape of Bordeaux, France. Superb Cabernets are being produced in California (especially the Napa Valley), Washington, Italy, Australia, and Chile.
Merlot
Merlot is softer tasting than Cabernet Sauvignon due to having less tannins. It is a smooth, dry wine. Merlot is often described as having the flavors of boysenberry, black cherry, herbs, and mocha.
Food and Wine Pairing Merlot is best with poultry and grilled meats, but actually goes well with most foods.
Origin Merlot originates from Bordeaux in France where it is the most commonly planted grape. You can find many great Merlots from California, Oregon, and Washington.
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is a smooth silky wine that is extremely fruity. It is characterized with aromas and flavors of black cherry or rose petals along with hints of spiciness or herbal qualities. Pinot Noirs are enjoyed for their soft velvety texture. High in alcohol, they are full bodied but not heavy.
Food and Wine Pairing Pinot Noir is best served with grilled salmon, roast beef, lamb, duck, and mushrooms.
Origin Burgandy, France is the area most recognized for its Pinot Noir. Great Pinots are also being produced in California, Oregon, British Columbia, and New Zealand.
Sangiovese
Sangiovese is a medium bodied dry wine with earthy aromas and berry, plum, spicy, or floral flavors. It has a smooth texture. Sangiovese is the main grape used to produce Italian Chiantis.
Food and Wine Pairing: Sangiovese goes especially well with pasta and other Italian foods.
Origin: Sangiovese grapes came from the Tuscany region of Italy. California is making some delicious Sangiovese as well.
Barbera
Barbera is often used as a blending grape. As a varietal it can exhibit aromas of berries, plums, or cherries with hints of vanilla, toasty, or smoky flavors.
Food and Wine Pairing:Tomato based pasta dishes are perfect matches to serve with Barbera.
Origin:Barbera is an Italian wine. However, California is producing some wonderful Barbera.
Syrah
Syrah is a hearty wine noted for its complexity of aromas and flavors including raspberry, plum, smoke, and white pepper. It is a dark red wine, sometimes almost black in color. This wine is also called Shiraz.
Food and Wine Pairing:Syrah is great eaten with duck, wild game, steak, and beef.
Origin:Syrah is believe to originate from France. There are great Syrahs produced in France, Australia, South Africa, and California.
Zinfandel can be light to full bodied. It can be rich and spicy or lighter and fruitier. Aromas and flavors that are typical include raspberry, jam, black pepper, and licorice.
Food and Wine Pairing:Zinfandel is wonderful with steaks, grilled meats, and tomato based dishes.
Origin:It is believe that Zinfandel originated in Croatia. It has been grown in California since the 1850s with California Zinfandels generally considered to the best.
Being from central California, I might be forgiven for feeling some trepidation when I flew from United States to live in Germany as my impression was of a dark and dreary land. I suspect it’s natural for one to assume that any place on the same general latitude of Winnipeg Canada was certainly bound to yield less than the balmy 110 degree summers of my erstwhile mountain home. Arriving in Frankfurt and traveling south on the autobahn at significantly higher rates of speed than I was used to, deposited me in a small town by the name of Schwetzingen. By way of landmarks, Schwetzingen is approximately ten miles west of Heidelberg and ten miles south of Mannheim in south central Germany.
Having arrived in the spring, I was pleasantly surprised at the temperate climate and lush foliage. I particularly enjoyed the intermingling of fields and cities that give a feeling of cohabitation between city dwellers and the countryside (although it’s a bit less attractive when the farmers are spreading liquid manure). It’s very different in that regard than the urban sprawl that we experience in America wherein the farmers are priced out of an area and the mini-malls and subdivisions move in.
After getting somewhat acclimated to my accommodations at the edge of town and procuring some local currency I walked into town and proceeded to get to know the place. As an amateur history buff I was really enjoying the architecture, particularly the Schloss (palace) downtown. The city seems to be a suburb of the larger towns around it and boast a mellow feeling. Not at all fluent in speaking German I decided to take a chance and ventured into a restaurant where I was warmly greeted, seated and given a menu (in German of course). After perusing it for a bit I decide that schweineschnitzel means something like a pork chop so I confidently indicate to the waitress that I would like a jagerschnitzel, with water and I was quite relieved to see that “beer” was pronounced pretty much the same so I ordered one of those as well. Lo and behold, the woman came out with a pork chop smothered in my nemesis the dreaded mushroom and some foul black liquid in a glass that seemed almost to be a solid, potentially requiring me to chew it. Apparently, German “Alt” beer is not unlike a Guinness stout. I gamely ate everything on the plate sans the mushrooms and with much gesticulation complimented them on a meal that was more than satisfactory.
Further exploration in Schwetzingen yielded an Italian restaurant with lasagna served still boiling from the oven that I became addicted to. And just east of town is the Bellamar swimming complex that I came to reside at as my second home. This is a family friendly swimming complex that includes indoor/outdoor temperature controlled pools, sauna, hot tubs, sun lamps, a restaurant that allows for seated as well as outdoor and poolside dining. For the summer months and there is also an adjoining Olympic sized pool and park. What’s not to love? Swimming in the steamy indoor / outdoor pool under the crisp winter night’s sky with snow falling all around is something that stays with you. As a note, with many places in Europe, the saunas are clothing optional.
This area of Germany is very foot traffic friendly so I rode my bike along paths through fields and surrounding towns to Heidelberg to explore this scenic city nestled at the foot of the mountains. This towns most prominent landmark is the Castle that was used both as a fortress and palace located on the hill overlooking the Neckar river. As you pass through town approaching the hills you will find a street that is blocked to automotive traffic called the Hauptstrasse (hoff-straus-a) that features a plethora of stores and restaurants. At the eastern end there is a Mecca for a homesick American, a McDonalds! And even better, they serve beer! So, after an arduous ride into town one can score some fast food and a six pack of beer for a day on the northern grassy banks of the Neckar river with the picturesque view of the town and castle directly in front. Shirts seem to be optional in the park here as well.
All in all I found the German people pleasant and receptive, particularly when I made efforts to converse with them in their own language.
If you hankering for fine German wine and food, why not consider the Mosel region of central western Germany on the border of Luxembourg? While I can’t guarantee that you’ll find a bargain, I know you’ll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a local white Riesling tasted with several meals and paired with imported cheeses.
The Mosel Valley has long been considered one of the most beautiful river valleys in the world. This region, formerly known as Mosel-Saar-Ruwer in honor of its three rivers, is proud of its Riesling wine. Some of the greatest Rieslings in Germany and in fact in the entire world come from the Mosel Valley. Experts can often identify Mosel Rieslings because of the slate in the local soil, which may impart a taste of flint. Mosel vineyard slopes are among the steepest in the wine-producing world, sometimes attaining 70 degrees. The soil is so precious that every spring local workers lug pails of soil up these slopes. This arduous activity temporarily reverses the effect of the rains that wash the soil down every winter.
Mosel is fifth among the thirteen German wine regions with respect to both vineyard acreage and total wine production. Slightly more than three quarters of the wine produced here is QbA and somewhat less than one quarter is higher quality QmP wine. Only one percent is table wine. More than half of all Mosel wine is Riesling. The German hybrid Mueller-Thurgau represents about 20% of the wine production. In third place is the historic variety Elbing that dates back to Roman times and is the major grape variety in the neighboring country of Luxembourg. Only about 2% of Mosel wine is red.
Basically the Mosel Valley runs from Koblenz not far from Germany’s former capital Bonn to the city of Trier that sits very close to the border. These two cities are linked by the Mosel Weinstrasse (Mosel Wine Road) which is about 140 miles (224 kilometers) long on the eastern side of the river and somewhat less on the western side. Of course, you could take the autobahn to get between Koblenz and Trier at breakneck speed. If you do, you’ll miss the interesting little towns and vineyards along the way.
Bernkastel-Kues is a town of about eight thousand that sits astride the Mosel River with Bernkastel on the east bank and Kues on the west bank. Bernkastel is about seven hundred years old but the area itself was first inhabited thousands of years ago. Bernkastel’s medieval town square is lovely with numerous half-timbered houses, some of which were built in the Fifteenth Century. St. Michaelsbrunnen (St. Michael’s Fountain) is right on the square and other historic fountains are nearby. Make sure to see the ruins of Burgruine Landshut (Castle of Landshut) for an excellent view of the city and surrounding vineyards. The first weekend of September marks the annual Weinfest der Mittelmosel (Wine Festival of the Middle Moselle River Valley) that includes a festive procession and a great fireworks display.
Bernkastel is home to the Bernkasteler Doctor vineyard producing one of Germany’s most expensive wines. According to popular legend a Fourteenth Century Archbishop of Trier was too sick to be helped by traditional medicine. He tasted some of the local wine, recovered, and said, “The best doctor grows in this vineyard in Bernkastel.” Due to questionable changes in German wine laws wine bottles labeled Bernkasteler Doctor may now be made by thirteen producers instead of three as previously. Let the buyer beware.
Kues was home to the Fifteenth Century theologian and philosopher Nikolaus Casanus, founder of the St.-Nikolaus-Hospital that operates a wine estate and the Mosel-Weinmuseum (Mosel Wine Museum). The museum’s library is open for tours and its wine cellar is open for tastings. Several local winemakers hold Tage der offenen Weinkeller (Open wine cellar days) in which they present and sell their wine in their own wine cellars.
Before we review the Mosel wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are some suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Gaensestopfleher (Foie Gras). For your second course enjoy Entenbrust an Brombeerjus (Duck Breast in Blackberry Juice). And for dessert indulge yourself with Schokoladencreme (Chocolate Mousse).
OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.
Wine Reviewed St. Urbans-Hof Riesling Kabinett 2005 8.6% alcohol about $20.00
Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. The 2005 Piesporter Goldtroepfchen Riesling Kabinett – still manages to show true Kabinett delicacy on the palate, which Weis attributes in part to earlier harvest and frankly in part to this site’s compatibility with higher yields. Skin contact and minimal clarification in the cellar help compensate for any danger of dilution. (Lower-yielding parcels nowadays must result in Spaetlese or Auslese.) Pineapple, grapefruit, black currant, and Golden Delicious apple dominate the proceedings, suffused with an aura of smoky, crushed stone, and mouthwatering acidity. This is once again a ‘little’ Mosel archetype and a terrific value … And now for the review.
Before the meal I thought to taste this wine on its own. It was delicately acidic and palate cleansing with light bubbles. Then I started with sweet and sour purchased barbecued chicken wings. The wine was fine with light acidity. Now I was ready to begin, so to speak. My initial pairing involved a commercial barbecued chicken leg with the paprika-coated skin, potatoes roasted in chicken fat, and some disappointing pickle slices. The wine’s fruit intensified to meet the chicken’s fat. This Riesling was quite round when dealing with the melt-in-your-mouth potatoes.
The next meal was an omelet with a local Provolone cheese and Turkish salad. The wine was round, thick, and pleasantly sweet. The word feathery came to mind. It sort of floated especially after the Turkish salad. Then I savored a high-quality, chocolate-coated vanilla ice cream bar. The wine retained its acidity; it was almost a good match.
The final meal was more of a snack. I ate some packaged Texas corn fritters with generous dollops of 14% sour cream. The wine was bold, sweet, and pleasantly acidic but frankly wasted on such plebian fare. I did finish the bottle with home made barbecued chicken to which the wine did honor. Even though the barbecue sauce wasn’t sweet the combination was excellent.
The initial cheese pairing was with a Dutch Edam that was nutty, a bit fatty, and somewhat sour. The Riesling’s sweetness seemed to step up a notch and it displayed tingling acidity. It’s been a long time since I enjoyed a wine and cheese pairing this much. Then I went to a mild-tasting Italian Friulano. The wine was acidic with sugar in the background.
Final verdict. This Riesling is a winner. I wouldn’t hesitate to pair it with a top of the line German poultry dish, the kind that you pay big bucks for over there. At 8.9% this is one of the least alcoholic wines that I have tasted in a long, long time. And you know what, I didn’t miss it a bit.
If you are looking for fine German wine and food, consider the Mosel region of central western Germany on the border of Luxembourg. You may find a bargain, and I hope that you’ll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a local white Qualitaetswein (read inexpensive) Riesling.
The Mosel Valley is felt to be one of the most beautiful river valleys in the world. This region, previously called Mosel-Saar-Ruwer in honor of its three rivers, is famous for its Riesling wine. Some of the greatest Rieslings in Germany and in fact in the entire world come from the Mosel Valley. Experts can often identify Mosel Rieslings because of the slate in the local soil, which may impart a taste of flint. The slopes are among the steepest in the wine-producing world, and sometimes attain 70 degrees. The soil is so precious that every spring local workers lug pails of soil up these steep slopes, temporarily reversing the effect of the rains that wash the soil down every winter.
Mosel ranks number five among the thirteen German wine regions when it comes to both vineyard acreage and total wine production. Slightly over three quarters of the regional wine is classified as QbA and somewhat less than one quarter is higher quality QmP wine. Only one percent is table wine. More than half of Mosel wine is Riesling. The German hybrid white grape variety Mueller-Thurgau represents about 20% of the wine production. In third place is the historic Elbing that dates back to Roman times. Only about 2% of Mosel wine is red.
The Mosel Valley pretty well stretches from Koblenz which isn’t far from Germany’s former capital Bonn to the city of Trier sitting very close to the border with Luxemburg. These two fine cities are linked by the Mosel Weinstrasse (Mosel Wine Road) which is approximately 140 miles (224 kilometers) long on the eastern side of the river and somewhat less on the western side. Of course, you could take the autobahn to travel between Koblenz and Trier at breakneck speed. If you do, you’ll miss the interesting little towns and vineyards along the way.
Cochem lies about one third of the way from Koblenz to Trier. It’s a fine little Mosel River Valley town. This medieval town is long and narrow. You should take a boat trip as well as a walking tour. Outside the town gate is the Kaiser Wilhelm railway tunnel, which at 2.5 miles (4 kilometers) is the longest in all Germany. After about a fifteen minute walk you will reach the Reichsburg (Imperial Fortress), a thousand year old castle that overlooks Cochem. The castle hosts a medieval banquet which features period costumes and music on Fridays and Saturdays but you must reserve in advance. North of the city is a larger castle, the Burg Eltz a few miles inland from the Mosel.
Before reviewing the Mosel wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Aalsuppe (Eel Soup). For your second course enjoy Rolladen (Beef rolls with Bacon and Pickles). As a dessert indulge yourself with Moselweintorte (Chocolate and Wine Cake).
OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.
Wine Reviewed Moselland Bernkasteler Kurfurstlay 2005 9.5% alcohol about $8.50
Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. Tasting Note: Pale straw yellow colour; citrus, mineral and dried apricot aromas and flavours; balanced with crisp acidity in the finish. Serving Suggestion: Serve chilled with pork, turkey or appetizers. Spicy asian dishes.
My first pairing was with a homemade pizza with lots of tomato sauce, vegetables, and cheese but no meat. This wine displayed refreshing acidity that worked well with the pizza sauce. It had good fruit and was surprisingly long.
The next meal included a barbecued chicken marinated in a commercial Mediterranean-style light sauce, red-skinned potatoes, and a somewhat spicy Turkish salad. The wine’s acidity cut the fat very well and yet complemented the tomato’s own acidity which largely defined the salad. This little and lightly alcoholic wine (9.5% when 13% plus seems to be the new norm) was quite assertive, especially with the potatoes. And yet it was somewhat flat with dessert, some orange fruit-juice candy.
The final meal was whole-wheat pasta in a sauce that started out with your basic commercial pasta sauce. I livened it up with a fried medley of garlic, red onions, red and green peppers, topped with anchovies and shredded (local) Asiago cheese. The wine was light and fruity and the combination was quite tasty. I was happy that this Riesling was low-alcohol (and inexpensive) so that I could drink quite a bit without any negative effects, including to my pocketbook.
The initial cheese pairing was with a mild Italian Pecorino Fruilano. The wine was sweet but didn’t impress me very much. Then I tried it with a nutty Dutch Edam cheese. Once again the wine was sweet but it was round and the combination went quite well.
Final verdict. Great bargain. The wine really goes well with simple food. I didn’t get a chance to try it with gourmet specialties but wouldn’t be surprised if it did as well as many wines including Rieslings at twice the price. If I weren’t saddled with so many wines to taste (talk about problems) I’d buy half a case and drink one every two months or so. Then I’d try one from the next vintage and hope to repeat the process. |
Munich
September 6, 2010, 7:45 pm
 Sunny 16°Creal feel: 13°C
current pressure: 1015 mb
humidity: 41%
wind speed: 6 m/s E
wind gusts: 6 m/s
sunrise: 6:38
sunset: 19:46
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